Always Wear A Helmet

The fist-shaped granite coast of Cape Ann offers a bicycle day trip which has it all:  lobster boats and lighthouses, art galleries and museums, gentle hills, fresh seafood and cool sea breezes.

This historic peninsula named for Queen Anne of England and settled by English fishermen in 1623 has the perfect bicycle loop through Gloucester and Rockport.  Route 127, and its offshoot 127A, hug the coast most of the way, yet allows bicyclists to investigate town centers, harbors, beaches and wildlife sanctuaries.

Start at Stage Fort Park in Gloucester.  The fort was originally used as a defense fortification from the Revolutionary War through the Spanish Civil War.  Climb the rocks for a view of Gloucester Harbor, dotted with lobster boats and pleasure craft.  In the hot weather, Half Moon Beach is good for a dip.

Head north on Route 127, over Blynman Bridge, the electric drawbridge over the Annisquam River where each August flowers are tossed in honor of Gloucester fishermen who died during the year.  Nearby is the statute of the Gloucester Fisherman, its base engraved with the words, "They that go down to the sea in ships," dedicated in 1923 for the town's 300th anniversary.

Route 127 enters downtown Gloucester, where bicyclists should watch out for traffic; stop at Seven Seas Wharf where working fishing vessels tie up; visit the Gloucester Fisheries Museum; browse in bookstores and Italian bakeries; or climb to historic Middle Street where houses built during Gloucester's 18th-century heyday still stand.

Follow signs to East Gloucester and Route 127A.  Lobster stands, boatyards and signs advertising whale watches begin to mingle with art galleries as you near the Rocky Neck Art Colony on the right.  The colony is the oldest of its kind in the country; its maze of houses, restaurants and galleries overlooking the town's inner harbor is worth exploring.

Continue on to Eastern Point, where you can pedal out to the Eastern Point Light and walk out the half-mile Dog Bar Breakwater which protects the harbor.  Park your bike and take a stroll through the Mass. Audubon Society's Eastern Point Bird Sanctuary.

Route 127A, or Atlantic Drive, is lined with mansions, hotels and views of waves crashing against huge boulders.  Wild flowers seem to thrive on the sea spray.

As you turn inland, you'll pass Good Harbor Beach just before the Rockport line.  Some beach-combing might be in order here.

Take a right on Penzance Road for a view of Cape Ann Light on Thatcher's Island - named for Mr. and Mrs. Anthony Thatcher, sole survivors of a 1635 island shipwreck.

Once you reach Rockport center, park your bikes and browse in the shops which fill the weathered shacks on Bearskin Neck, once fish houses and commercial buildings for a thriving fishing industry.  One story has it the neck got its name in 1700 when Ebenezer Babson, protecting his nephew, killed a bear on its shores, then hung its skin out to dry.

Returning via Route 127, stop at the Rockport Art Association, 12 Main Street.  It's open daily with continuous exhibitions featuring local artists.  Admission is free.

You'll pass the Old Granite Quarry which once employed many Rockport men and sent Rockport granite up and down the eastern seaboard.  Across the street is the Granite Pier, a never-completed breakwater, where fishermen still land boats.

Take a right on Gott Avenue, then walk through the woods to the rock ledges and wide open vistas of Halibut Point Reservation.

You are rarely out of sight of water on this trip.  Coming up the other side of Cape Ann, you'll spot skin divers in the quiet coves.  A nice lunch stop is at the Lobster Pool in Folly Cove. The seafood chowder is filled with shrimp, scallops, clams and fish in a light broth.  Lobster, clam rolls, seafood plates are reasonably priced.  Plus, you can eat indoors or out, both with a view of Folly Cove.

The return to Gloucester is a little hilly, but scenic, as you pass through Annisquam and residential areas.  There is one rotary (Grant Circle) just prior to approaching Gloucester center which can be somewhat harrowing.  (An alternative to the rotary:  Take a left onto Poplar Street, followed by a right onto Maplewood Avenue (under Route 128) and a right onto Grove Street.  Cross Washington Street onto Centennial Avenue back onto Route 127) If you do the total ride, it's about 25 miles.

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I do this trip from Cape Ann Campground, Exit 13 off of Route 128, so I usually run a total of about 36 miles.  This is a great full-day trip. 

Other options while in this area would be to cycle into Essex (try one of the many restaurants for clams, including Woodman's where it's said the fried clam was invented.  If I am introducing someone to the area, Woodman's is a "must," but it is usually very crowded.  I have found Farnham's restaurant just down the road a piece to be a very good alternative). 

There's an interesting ship-building museum (closed Tuesdays - yep, that's the day I cycled to Essex this trip) as well as a number of antique shops.  I usually cycle from the campground to Ipswich via Route 133 which is a beautiful ride with a number of possibilities for stops along the way. 

This summer I was lucky enough to be able to join a group of children and their camp counselors at Wolf Hollow, Ipswich.  They are open weekends, but during the week by group reservations only.  Please check out Wolf Hollow for photos and articles on the grey wolves.

Another option is to cycle toward Salem, MA, along Route 127 West which would be a good day's ride - also with a number of stops along the way,  Hammonds Castle being one of the first and one of the best known.  You can ride the train north to Newburyport, or south to Boston, with stops at Gloucester, Rockport, Salem.  You no longer need a T-permit for your bike (up to the year 2000, it was necessary).  I had wanted to take the train into Boston, then sightsee with my bike up until I took a bus tour of Boston.  There is no way that biking is Boston is a good idea!  With "The Big Dig" going on, it's a problem driving or just walking!

I have found the area north of Boston to be very cycle friendly (except aforesaid rotary in Gloucester) and travel there at least once a year.  Cape Ann Campground is located just a couple of miles from Wingaersheek Beach and will give discounts to those who camp with them.  

There are a number of excellent whale watch vessels that go out from Gloucester.  If you have never taken one of these trips, by all means, please consider doing so.  The trips are about three to four hours in length and very reasonable.  There is nothing more awe inspiring than seeing one of these creatures close up.  If you're lucky, you may see a mother and calf or perhaps even see one of the whales breaching.  If you have a tendency to get seasick, either take Dramamine before going out (it does no good to take it once you start to feel "uncomfortable" (it does make you feel sleepy) - I understand there's a new drug on the market, but haven't found the name.   I've had good luck with the wrist bands even going out the first of April or the end of October when the Atlantic can really get rough!

For July photos of the Cape Ann area, please click on:

Cape Ann Photos

I did make it back to this area again - the end of September.  Monday, I did a short ride to Wingaersheek Beach.  Tuesday - it rained all day.  Wednesday was sunny, but very cool and windy.  Thursday was cloudy and overcast.  This has definitely not been the best camping and cycling season! 

Cape Ann Photos - Fall